Existential meanderings in the Burren
“A savage land, yielding neither water enough to drown a man, nor tree to hang him, nor soil to bury him .” (Edmund Ludlow, Oliver Cromwell’s Chief of Command in Ireland). Sinewy rock, battle-scarred shrubs, a heavy sky and a groaning wind that buffets and mutes the cries of a single wheatear, the only other living creature on this solitary landscape. This is Mullaughmore Mountain in the Burren, County Clare, perhaps even the very location where Edmund Ludlow spoke his historic words. Before me is his “savage land,” a place of paradox and anachronism. It is hostile and yet welcoming and gentle. At my feet, where the grass looks as if it has had the soul sucked out of it, the frailest of exuberantly coloured flowers bloom. Sub alpine flora, orchids, are nestled into the limestone rock, where they flourish year upon year in defiance of the desert grey wilderness that is their home. Orchids, blue gentian and early purple, smile sweetly in the face of each gust, Mountain aven exte...